Taking my curiosity straight into the ocean today as I squeeze into a full wetsuit to find out what it really takes to be a surfer. Practicing my stance on the warm Malibu sand was one thing, but taking this massive board out into the breaking waves is an entirely different level of exhaustion. I am testing my absolute limits, trying to paddle past the break while navigating some intense water energy. Tune in to find out if my goofy foot instincts kick in or if the crash zone totally swallows me whole.
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